Down to the Adriatic: Opatija, Croatia

A seaside classic with quiet confidence and easy rail connections

Opatija sits at the edge of the Adriatic, wrapped in greenery and sea light, with a calm that feels earned rather than curated. Long before Dubrovnik found itself on bucket lists, this stretch of Croatia’s Kvarner Gulf was already welcoming European aristocrats, drawn by the salt air, mild winters, and a growing network of grand hotels. That legacy still lingers, but today’s Opatija has found its own rhythm.

The town climbs from the shore into the hills, with narrow streets framed by camellias and tall palms. Elegant villas, many from the 1800s, are tucked behind wrought-iron gates and ivy-covered walls. Some have been carefully restored as boutique hotels, while a few still feel suspended in time. There is a lived-in elegance here, less about luxury than about atmosphere.

The waterfront promenade, known as the Lungomare, links Opatija to a string of small towns and coves. Early in the morning, it belongs to runners and swimmers. Later, it fills with couples walking slowly, passing cafes that serve strong coffee and plates of grilled calamari. The sea is always just a few steps away, shifting in color with the sky.

For a different view, head uphill to Veprinac. The road winds through chestnut trees to a small village where the air smells of pine and woodsmoke. From the old stone churchyard, the bay opens up in a wide sweep of blue and green. On clear days, you can see all the way to the islands. It’s a short drive, but it changes the pace entirely.

Food here leans coastal, with inland touches. You’ll find handmade pasta with truffles, wild herbs, and fresh anchovies. Menus are seasonal without calling attention to it. The best meals often come from the simplest kitchens, family-run places where the recipes haven’t changed in years.

The charm is in the detailshere: the slant of the afternoon light on a hotel terrace, the sound of piano music drifting from an open window, the way locals still take time for an early evening stroll. There are no must-see lists. Just the sense that you are somewhere that has lasted.

To Opatija by Rail

Traveling to Opatija by train adds a layer to the experience. Routes from cities like Vienna, Munich, and Venice connect smoothly with Ljubljana. The night train from Munich is an option for the more adventurous. The final leg is short and scenic, following the curve of the bay into town. It’s a thoughtful way in.

For tailormade rail package holidays that include Opatija, head over to Byway (byway.travel), a UK based outfit with a 5 star TrustPilot rating. Please let them know you heard about them through us!

If you’re a little unsure where to start and want the hassle of booking tickets and choosing hotels taken off your hands, they can build you a fully custom one way or return trip starting almost anywhere, and you also get on demand support in trip. You can call them on 020 4525 6215 from the UK, or +1-210-641-5329 from the US.