There’s a moment, as the train rolls across the Douro River, when Porto seems to shimmer into being, its jumble of terracotta rooftops spilling down the hillsides, blue-tiled churches glinting in the light, and the scent of the Atlantic drifting inland.
It’s a route few take the time to savour now, probably because it’s no longer as simple as it once was. There are only two rail routes between the Spanish and Portuguese border, and while both are slightly tricky, you are justly rewarded. Tracing a line from London through the vineyards of Bordeaux, perhaps stopping for seafood in San Sebastián or a night among the granite streets of Vigo, the train journey to Porto exudes the romance of slow travel.
Porto has a quiet magic. It is to Lisbon as Edinburgh is to London, bustling but never overwhelming. Walk its steep cobbled streets and you’ll find azulejo-covered façades that seem to tell their own stories. Churches gleam in blue and white, and laundry flutters from balconies above narrow lanes where trams still rattle past. Look out for and admire the tiles that adorn almost every wall. Down by the river, the Ribeira quarter hums with life, its cafés spilling onto the quayside and the sound of guitar drifting over the water. It’s a uniquely special city that leaves you wanting more, no matter how long you stay.
Across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, the city’s wine cellars hold their own quiet world. The air is cool and heavy with the scent of oak and ageing port. Tastings here are unhurried affairs, best enjoyed with a view back across the water to the tiled houses of the old town.
Staying in Porto for a few days offers the chance to experience a unique rail journey. The line runs east along the Douro Valley, a world of terraces, vines and mist rising from the water. It’s one not be missed, and São Bento station is possibly one of the most beautiful stations to start any trip from. On the return route, you might trace your way back along the same route, or for something different, you might head over to Madrid by coach. It’s an underrated city that deserves at least a couple of nights, and is often overshadowed by the bright lights of Barcelona. If heading onwards to the UK, pause once more in Nîmes for a slice of history before the tracks pull north through France.
There is yet an even more interesting route between Porto and Madrid, with wonderful scenery along the way. It’s best if you intend to also visit Lisbon on the same trip, as the journey starts here (or ends here if doing it the other way around). It requires two stops en route, first at Entroncamento, and second at Badajoz, which is certainly an interesting place to spend a night. As it’s a long day from Lisbon to Madrid this way, a night along the way is recommended.
Getting to Porto by rail
To plan your own journey by train, head over to seat61.com, or have Byway (byway.travel) plan your trip. They’ll arrange all passes, seat reservations and hotel bookings as a package, and are rated 5 stars on Trustpilot.
They have a pre built trip to Porto here, and if you’d like to customise it you give them a call on +44 (0)20 4525 6215, or +1-210-641-5329 from the USA.
They also have a dedicated concierge team who can help suggest a route and hotels, whether one way or return, no matter where you intend to start. They even look after you while you’re away with on demand WhatsApp support and free rerouting in case of disruptions.
If you just need help booking train tickets and have your own accommodation sorted, you can get in touch with us here and we’d be delighted to assist.
